ROLF - The river and the surroundings

The Green Heron

2010-08-30T10:41:00.002-05:00

A few pictures of a Green Heron, common on the North Fork of the White River.

Indigo Bunting in all his glory

2010-08-25T14:21:00.005-05:00

Taken this summer outside St. Louis. these are extremely common on the ROLF property in Ozark County Missouri.

Painted Bunting at River of Life Farm

2010-08-25T11:14:00.003-05:00

I took this picture in 2007 with the ROLF property and was so surprised to see him. But in reality Ozark county is on the northwest edge of their range. I saw a second one in the Caney Mountain Refuge in 2009. I am sure I can find them in May - June in many locations in Ozark County. Be on the look out for this beauty. The female is a rather plain green gray.

There is a Blog about them published below:

http://www.paintedbuntings.org/blog

Twin Fawns (wild)

2010-08-16T11:38:00.002-05:00

Saw these a month ago in Rockwoods CA near St. Louis; they were being watched closely by the mother.

Black Throated Green Warbler

2010-08-16T11:33:00.002-05:00

Uncommon to scarce in Missouri; this is probably a first year male; due to the blotchy black throat.

Some better Scarlet Tanager pictures

2010-07-27T10:00:00.001-05:00

Taken yesterday, 7/26 in the afternoon.

Scarlet Tanagers

2010-07-24T10:39:00.002-05:00

Although more scarce and harder to photograph, these are also gorgeous birds. They spend most of their time high in the tree canopy and are very nervous. I have never be able to get a clear shot of one; but have several where I tried to focus upwards through the branches. Pictured are a late summer male and female.

Summer Tanagers in Missouri

2010-07-12T11:16:00.002-05:00

These beautiful birds are spring and summer visitors across the southern part of the state. The are particularly common in Ozark County and I counted 5 pairs with the River of Life Farm property in June 2009. At first appearing to be a Northern Cardinal; and then appearing to be a more exotic red color, they need a close look to differentiate. They are beautiful birds (about cardinal sized); a little smaller.

They migrate each April from South American to next here. They nest high in hardwood trees and build a nest of grass. The first nest is fledged in June.

I took these pictures in St. louis county on Sunday 7/11/10 with a Canon 7D. Shown are 2 male and 2 female Summer Tanagers.

Eastern Wood Peewee in the summer shade

2010-07-11T09:40:00.002-05:00

This Wood Peewee was catching insects in the shade of some hickory trees Saturday.

Award Winning Bluebird Photo

2010-07-06T15:18:00.005-05:00

Just won the award: click to enlarge.

Natures Prime - Hall of Fame Award

Hot Days -- Ozark Birds bathing

2010-07-06T11:37:00.002-05:00

Days are hot and long in July. Creeks are pretty dry except after a downpour. Where songbirds can find a creek with moving waters; they can be found bathing and preening feathers.

Blue Gray Gnatcatcher

2010-06-30T09:17:00.002-05:00

One of my favorite birds. Extremely small, active, very inquisitive, and a native of Missouri and Ozark county in the summer. This one responds to whispering and comes to see what I'm doing.

Reflections: Great Blue Heron

2010-06-16T21:40:00.002-05:00

Picture taken last evening 6/15. These birds are common on the North Fork f the White River.

Ozark County leads Missouri in Black Bear sightings

2010-06-10T13:04:00.003-05:00

MDC recently announced that Ozark County leads the state with 102 bear sightings. Howell and Douglas County rank 2nd and 3rd with 60 and 51 sightings respectively.

I was lucky last May 2009, to see a good-sized Black Bear while leaving the River of Life Farm property, but never reported it to MDC.

The bear so quickly crossed the road that I had no chance at a photo.

House Wren on a late June afternoon

2010-06-09T12:31:00.003-05:00

The pair have now fledged their first brood of 2010. Looks like five chicks.

Redheaded Woodpeckers nearing fledging brood one

2010-06-08T08:16:00.003-05:00

This pair of birds has been mating and nesting since 4/14; starting building nest in tree cavity on 4/22; began feeding chicks on 5/18; and now are making continuous trips to feed. My guess it that the fledglings will emerge tis week sometime; stay tuned. I try to visit the nesting site ever other day.

Summer Tanagers 2010

2010-06-07T17:59:00.003-05:00

They have arrived in eastern and southern Missouri i good numbers. This young male visits a mulberry bush a dozen times per day. They will readily eat ripe fruit along with insects. Click to enlarge.

Unusual birds in action

2010-06-03T11:02:00.004-05:00

These pictures were taken over the weekend at a Mulberry tree. Many species of birds were gorging themselves with ripened berries. Pictures female Baltimore Oriole, juvenile male Baltimore Oriole, Orchard Oriole male and female and a Robin. Taken with Canon 7D with 400mm f 5.6.

Hello Followers

2010-06-01T09:53:00.002-05:00

I have not posted for many weeks, but am back now. The job, you know. Ill start off with a beautiful Baltimore Oriole in a Mulberry Tree that i took with a Canon 7D and a EF400 DO IS lens on 5/26.

Beautiful mated pair of Redheaded woodpeckers

2010-04-22T11:07:00.003-05:00

This particular woodpecker is declining across Missouri and the US and Canada. I caught a mated pair last evening on a dead tree snag starting their nest. There a few Canon 7D pics from about 75'. These birds are frequently seen at River of Life Farm and have at least 2 nesting sites there.

Red-headed Woodpecker
(Melanerpes erythrocephalus)

Easily identified by its red head and white wing patches, this woodpecker is also the most adept at catching flying insects. It is one of only four woodpecker species known to cache food in the winter months and is the only known to cover food with bark and other wood. Historically a species with population fluctuations, it has experienced a 4.6% decline per year since 1980 due to habitat destruction and a milieu of other factors.

Identification
Adult males and females are indistinguishable in the field and are easily identified by their red heads, necks, throats, and upper breasts. Their remaining underparts are white and their upperparts are mostly black with a blue or green iridescence. A large white patch on the wings is used to identify both adults and juveniles. Juvenile plumage most differs from adults on the head, neck, and upper breast with varying degrees of brown or red and white wing patch. Bill is white or gray. Calls are described as churr, tchur, and churr. Alarm call at nest is described as KRIT-tar-rah or QUARR-QUARR-QUARR. Drumming is done in bursts of 1-second duration and repeated 2 or 3 times.

Distribution and Population Trends
Breeding range covers most of the eastern half of the United States west of the Rocky Mountains north to southern Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec. Birds withdraw from northern third of range in winter with distribution dependent upon food abundance. Red-headed Woodpeckers are found in Nation's Road Grasslands and Letchworth State Park IBA in New York with over 8 breeding pairs, Bonny Lake State Park & South Republican Management Area IBA in Colorado, Cabot Head IBA in Ontario with more than 40 individuals during fall migration, and Kinosota-Leifur IBA in Manitoba where over 100 breeding Red-headeds occur (3% of Canadian population).

Populations have always seemed to fluctuate from abundant to on the verge of extinction. Periods of abundance have coincided with the decline of chestnuts and elms, perhaps because of increased nesting trees. Periods of decline coincided with the decline of beech trees and Rocky Mountain grasshoppers in central US. Range has contracted to the southern limits of Ontario and appears to be decreasing in abundance across entire range. The Breeding Bird Survey indicates a significant population decline of 2.5% per year from 1966-2000 and by 4.6% per year over the last 20 years (1980-2000). This has amounted to a 50% population reduction since 1966. The Christmas Bird Count indicates a similar population decline, with both a decrease in the number of individuals recorded and the number of individuals observed per party hour. Local population increases have been associated with increasing beaver populations and the creation of flooded forests with lots of snags for nesting.

Ecology
Occupies a wide range of habitats, but most are characterized by open areas for feeding, snags for roosting, and a secure food supply. Requires multiple snags for nesting, roosting, and foraging. Some of the habitats used are: open deciduous and riparian woodlands, orchards, parks, agricultural lands, savanna-like grasslands, beaver ponds with snags, forest edges, burned forests, and flooded bottomland forests. Habitats are similar in both breeding and wintering range, but winter distribution most determined by presence of food. Have been known to move north in winter if mast is heavy.

Begin nest-building as early as February and egg-laying as early as mid-April. An average of 4-7 eggs are laid in the cavity and incubated by both parents for 12-14 days. May have two broods per season and will lay a second clutch if first fails. A pair may use the same cavity for several years in a row. Red-headeds may use cavities excavated by other woodpeckers or even force some species to abandon active cavities.

Consumes seeds, nuts, sap, corn, fruit, insects, bird eggs, nestlings, adult birds, and mice. Eats mostly insects and plant material in summer and mostly nuts (acorns and beechnuts) in winter. Will forage on ground, capture insects in flight, glean food from vegetation, or chisel trees for wood-boring insects and sap. Most adapted of all the woodpeckers for flycatching. Will store food for winter (grasshoppers, nuts, corn, and fruit) in natural crevices of trees and posts, in tree cavities, under bark, and under railroad ties and shingles. Only known woodpecker to cover stored food with bark or wood.

Threats
At one time the Red-headed Woodpecker was targeted by sportsmen because of its brilliant red plumage, as an agricultural pest, and for damage to telephone poles. Its population has decreased as a result of food source losses, as evidenced by population declines in association with the decline of beech trees and the disappearance of Rocky Mountain grasshoppers. Collisions with automobiles were particularly common in the mid-1900s and the species is considered a rare victim of tower collisions. Nest failure occurs when nests are excavated in telephone poles recently (within 3-4 years) treated with creosote. Competition for nesting sites with European Starlings was thought to decrease reproductive success, but recent studies show that this may not be the case. The mere fact that starlings nest earlier than this woodpecker suggests that Red-heads may not be vulnerable to starling invasion. Habitat has been degraded by the harvesting of snags, clearcuts, agricultural development, channeling of rivers, regeneration of eastern forests, fire suppression, monoculture crops, and the loss of small orchards.

Conservation
The Red-headed Woodpecker is listed as a vulnerable species in Canada and is listed on multiple state threatened species lists in the United States. Habitat should be managed so as to provide large forest fragments (>2 ha) with large snags for nesting and open areas for catching flying insects. In addition, selective thinning has been shown to increase the likelihood of occurrence and nesting in Ohio. Controlled fires have negative and positive impacts. While they open up the forest (providing open space for fly catching) and create snags, they can also destroy existing snags used for nesting.

The Red-headed Woodpecker is listed as a priority species in Partners in Flight's Bird Conservation Plan for the Upper Great Lakes Plain (http://www.partnersinflight.org). One of the objectives of this plan is to increase Red-headed Woodpeckers by 3% per year in USFWS Region 3 from 1980-2010 as measured by the Breeding Bird Survey.

Hooded Merganser seen on Sunday

2010-04-19T19:34:00.001-05:00

they are migrating through Missouri at this time.

A four foot rise in the North Fork one year ago 4/17/09

2010-04-16T15:24:00.010-05:00

I took these pictures one full year ago this coming weekend. The North Fork of the White River had risen about 4 feet overnight and muddied up quite a bit. The next morning, at dawn, I could hear the high water and later in the day, walked to the falls. The dogwood was just beginning to come out. During the week the river fell and greened up and the wild rainbow trout started hitting nymphs. A really nice week at a great place !!

Red-talied Hawk -- Closer pictures

2010-04-14T21:17:00.002-05:00

Taken yesterday 4/13 and today 4/14. Common across southern Missouri.

Spring Time Reflections

2010-04-13T08:51:00.002-05:00

Redbud reflection in a spring creek.

another Pileated Woodpecker

2010-04-12T22:00:00.003-05:00

this is a male; foraging for ants. Got lucky again, he landed within 60-75 feet of me. Click to enlarge. Afternoon of 4/12/10.

Cardinals are eating Elm bud seeds

2010-04-12T11:12:00.003-05:00

This pair of Northern Cardinals; (only male pictured), was Feasting on American Elm Buds (seeds). The have only a few days to gorge themselves.

View of Rock Bridge Mill in about 1900

2010-04-09T12:39:00.002-05:00

From old postcard I bought on eBay.

Pileated Woodpecker Pair

2010-04-07T13:41:00.003-05:00

Happened upon this pair yesterday; tearing a few logs apart in their quest for ants. They worked about 75-100 feet from me and I got about 425 shots off in about 20 minutes. The male has a red cheek bar; the female does not; she also has a brown patch on her forehead. They are awesome birds, very large, and primitive looking. Taken 4/6 Canon 7D + 400mm lens. There were at least 3 pairs of Pileated Woodpeckers nesting at River of Life Farm in 2009.

Perspective of very early red buds

2010-04-06T09:45:00.002-05:00

A very cold winter (7th coldest on record) is being followed by an extremely warm spring. Trees are popping out much faster than usual; the red bud is magnificent; the dogwood will not be so good due to fast leaf out. The wild plum is also gorgeous this year.

Yellow bellied sapsucker invasion

2010-04-06T09:36:00.003-05:00

A good invasion !!!! They nest in Canada, winter in South America. They are migrating Woodpeckers. Their diet is tree sap and insects stuck to the sap. They tap or drill a line of holes around preferred trees; they use the holes to feed trough by re-opening and slightly enlarging and deepening the holes. They are in Missouri now, but will be moving on by the end of the month of April to northern Mn and all of Canada to breed. These pictures taken this past weekend when I saw 25-30 different sapsuckers in a few hours.

Blood Root in bloom in Missouri

2010-03-31T15:12:00.002-05:00

This bloodroot picture was taken with a telephoto lens from across the road.

Red-talied Hawk Sequence

2010-03-28T17:35:00.002-05:00

Yesterday I took this sequence of a Red-talied hawk leaving a tree in St. Louis county.

Ribbon Snake

2010-03-25T11:54:00.003-05:00

I saw the first snake of 2010 yesterday at Castlewood State Park along the rising Meramec. Haven't seen one for years. They were extremely common along all the rivers in southern Missouri, when I was young; they are expert at catching minnows. Taken with a Canon 100mm Macro lens.

Mating Pair of Northern Cardinals

2010-03-22T11:36:00.002-05:00

Taken Sunday (3/21) at Rockwoods Reservation near St. Louis, MO.

White-breated Nuthatch courtship has begun

2010-03-19T11:35:00.003-05:00

I noticed yesterday (March 20th), that a White Breasted Nuthatch pair has been courting each other. There courtship antics include, jumping, bowing their heads, fanning their tails, carrying and presenting gifts to each other; flying short distances together from tree to tree, etc. This is actually the first time I have witnessed this. They should begin nesting in a week or so with good weather. Click to enlarge. Taken with a Canon 7D and a Canon EF400 f/5.6L lens at 1/1250 second.

River of Life Farm Office and Restaurant last April 20th

2010-03-16T19:20:00.003-05:00

Taken with a Canon 5D MKII with a Canon 15mm Fisheye lens in late afternoon.

Sort of cute picture of a Wild Turkey in Kirkwood Park

2010-03-13T19:46:00.002-06:00

Cutest turkey picture yet.

Me in 1966 paddling the North Fork of the White

2010-03-12T12:00:00.003-06:00

from Twin Bridges downstream in a Dwane Woltjen (St. Louis) made Ozark Canoe. One of the best river touring canoes ever made. It replaced my old town OTCA in 1966. I used this canoe until 1994, when it was picked up in a windstorm and slammed against a telephone pole. It broke in half.

Old Rock Bridge Post Office - Store - Restaurant

2010-03-12T11:53:00.004-06:00

Taken by me in December 1970. They still pumped gas at that time.

A few more old Wood and Canvas canoe I restored

2010-03-12T11:47:00.005-06:00

Here is a list of the canoes I restored in the years 1991-2001;

I found some pics of a few; it was an old hobby. Steve Thompson Bros 16' - 1938, made in Wisconsin; Red (sold by Alpine Shop; 1992, $1900) Old Town Otca 16' - 1962 very high grade with long decks and all mahogany trim; Old Town, Me.; White (sold by Alpine Shop 1994, $2000) Chestnut Canoe 15' Bob's Special - 1964 all white cedar; only a partial picture of honey colored interior; Red (sold by Alpine Shop 1994, $1800) Morris Canoe 17' - 1901 twin of one hanging in front; Green (sold by me 1991, $3500) Not pictured; 1894 Gerish 15', Light Blue with birchbark lashed ends (sold by me 1994 $5200) Morris Canoe 17'; 1897 hanging over cash wrap area (est. value $4000 - $5000) 1921 Old Town 16' Charles River Green (sold by Alpine Shop 1993, $1800) 1922 Old Town Guide CS 17' Grade Red (sold by Alpine Shop 1994; $1500) 1930 Old Town Henry Wicker Green 16' Green (sold by Alpine Shop 1995; $1200) 1944 Old Town Guide 17' Green High Grade (sold Alpine Shop; 1995, $1200) 1936 Carlton 18' Guide Canoe Light Green (sold Alpine Shop; 1994; $1500) 1920 Kennebec 18' Guide Canoe Light Blue (sold Alpine Shop; 1993, $1300) 1932 St. Louis Canoe 17' Polling Canoe Red (sold Alpine Shop 199x, $2700) 1936 St. Louis Canoe Arrowhead model 17' Red (sold Alpine Shop 199x, $2650) 1907 Pen Yan 16' Canoe White (sold Alpine Shop (sold Alpine Shop 1994; $1200)

Shots of Bald Eagle (portrait)

2010-03-10T16:41:00.001-06:00

Click to enlarge. Canon 7D EF400 mm DO IS.

Hepatica is in bloom

2010-03-10T09:48:00.002-06:00

One of Missouri's earliest wildflowers is in bloom now. This is the beginning of the opening of 100s of varieties across the Ozarks.

Crocus in bloom in Kirkwood

2010-03-08T11:14:00.004-06:00

Happy March 8th everyone; temperature on its way to the upper sixties. These beautiful crocus have been in bloom for 7 days in Kirkwood, MO. Although not a native wildflower, they DO show spring is approaching fast.

Quick glimpse of a Male Pileated Woodpecker

2010-03-08T09:30:00.003-06:00

I took this 3/7. These woodpeckers are so very common at River of Life Farm. At least two pairs nested in 2009. Click to enlarge. Canon EOS 7D with Canon 300mm EF300 DO IS lens.

Indigo Buntings arrival, molting for the nesting season

2010-03-06T09:30:00.001-06:00

Just this first week of March.

Bluebirds 2010 at River of Life Farm

2010-02-23T14:44:00.002-06:00

This picture is fro April 2009. I am anxiously awaiting the nesting season starting a about 4 weeks. River of Life Farm has a very nice start to a very good Bluebird Trail. This picture taken last April is of a female with a spider feeding her nestlings in the house closest to the North Fork River falls.

River of Life Farm; great birding location

2010-02-22T17:13:00.003-06:00

Last May, while staying at River of Life Farm on the North Fork River, I drove the country roads to and from the farm. What a great place to find Eastern Kingbirds. Here are a few taken from the car window. Click to enlarge.

November sunset on the North Fork River

2010-02-21T18:35:00.002-06:00

Looking downstream from the falls on November 8, 2008. A golden and silver cast reflected of the water.

Pretty white-tailed deer doe

2010-02-18T17:10:00.002-06:00

Click to enlarge.

A late fall day on Spring Creek above Rockbridge Mill

2010-02-12T13:03:00.005-06:00

There are some nice trails just above the Mill on Spring Creek at Rockbridge. I spent an afternoon and evening hiking and snapping a few photos. It is really a beautiful place to walk; not quite a pristine as the River of Life Spring trails; but beautiful. Many migrating songbirds were calling along the trail. This is only about a 35 minute drive from the River of Life Farm and makes a nice side trip.

Rockbridge Mill on Spring Creek in February

2010-02-11T16:50:00.003-06:00

About 20 miles from River of Life Farm (west and north a bit) lies the old town of Rockbridge. Rockbridge was the County Seat of Ozark County until 1880, when it was moved to Gainesville. A nice side trip can be made and is about a 35 minute drive through the pretty Ozark County countryside. Rockbridge is a great place to grab lunch.

Cute mid winter male Downey Woodpecker

2010-02-03T14:25:00.003-06:00

This guy has started drumming today; Feb. 3, 2010. Not long until they pair up and begin their courtship ritual.

Northern Cardinals begin 2010 mating ritual

2010-02-01T20:15:00.003-06:00

Starting last week in the snow, this pair has been singing to each other continuously; a very early sign of spring in the Ozarks. Click to enlarge. Taken Canon 1DS and Canon EF300 f/2.8 L IS lens with a 1.4 TC = 420mm f/4 IS lens.

Red Headed Woodpecker making the leap

2010-01-29T14:36:00.003-06:00

This picture was taken last November. While tracking a Red-headed Woodpecker in the open fields at the River of Life Farm entrance, he made a leap to a nearby utility pole. They seem to be getting rare to me; used to them much more often. Canon 50D with 400mm f/5.6 L Canon lens. This is not a good photo but does show the scarlet head of the male woodpecker.

A late summer dawn

2010-01-20T11:03:00.003-06:00

A scene I dream about. Taken on a hike in the upper field of River of Life Farm. A inspirational sunrise !! Taken Canon 1DS and EF70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens.

The sassy old Blue Jay

2010-01-19T10:38:00.003-06:00

My first post of a Blue Jay. He was in my front yard a few days ago eating peanuts.

A winter sunrise looking east from the treetop loft

2010-01-15T10:31:00.002-06:00

Good morning !!!

Red-bellied woodpecker longshots

2010-01-14T12:21:00.004-06:00

I took these pics late last fall near the North Fork of the White river in an old walnut tree that had dropped all it's leaves. The woodpecker was particularly interested in an area were a dead limb was rotting. I took these pictures from about 100 yards with an old Canon 1DS DSLR and a EF600mm f/4 IS L lens with a 2X TC making the total 1200mm lens. Not to bad for a long shot where I could not tell what bird I was shooting until I processed the pictures later in the day.

Cold Northern Cardinals

2010-01-10T14:52:00.003-06:00

During this cold spell, be sure to remember the birds; especially or native winter birds, including cardinals. Food and water are essential. If there is not running water nearby, a bird bath heater will do the job. Pictured are two cardinals that are cold.

The beautiful North Fork 3 days after muddy water

2010-01-07T18:20:00.004-06:00

The North Fork of the White at River of Life Farm, does not stay muddy or murky for long after a high water event. The day following the mud, the river takes on a clearing tone or greenish color, the third day the river appears to turn a beautiful turquoise color (as below) that last for about two days. Fishing is usually very good when the river has color. This picture is from a fall 2009 rise

Its cold, snowy, and dark

2010-01-06T11:11:00.003-06:00

For me, it's a tough time of the year. I like to think back to mid-May last year, driving the Ozark county ridges and watching for fields of purple and pale purple coneflowers and watching the sun come up over hayfields in the river valley and watching wildlife. I know I should appreciate the winter, but come on spring.

May fly hatch in late October

2009-12-28T11:39:00.003-06:00

I did not identify, but there was a very large hatch on October 24 near the falls. As the evening went on towards dark, the hatch increased to the point where breathing became hard and my eyes where filled with may flys.

Chickadee in snow shower

2009-12-21T16:53:00.001-06:00

A Carolina Chickadee in a light snow shower on Dec 19, 2009.

The gravel road and old wooden bridge at Patrick

2009-12-17T12:09:00.007-06:00

This picture is of the old gravel County Road H with the wooden bridge crossing in 1964. and one taken in 2008.

River of Life Farm; river valley on an October morning

2009-12-17T10:22:00.003-06:00

First a gorgeous sunrise on the North Fork of the White River, then the fog rolls down the valley.

Topaz in Late October 2009

2009-12-13T19:52:00.003-06:00

The gorgeous village of Topaz, on the North Fork of the White River on October 25, 2009. Once a ghost town on the river bank, with a mill and general store, a few families have moved back into the valley. The pictures are of the mill and a look upstream and downstream from the Topaz low-water crossing just upstream from the old mill. Taken with a Canon 5D MKII.

Rare Winter Wren in Missouri

2009-12-07T14:19:00.002-06:00

He is here and has been for days and sassy as he looks. He is much smaller than a Carolina or House Wren. He has been here for about a week now.

Part 4 Topaz to Twin Bridges

2009-12-02T10:14:00.004-06:00

(Indian Creek above)

Part 4

We camped in a small field just below Topaz on the east bank of the North Fork on the 3rd night. The river was markedly larger at this point; with increased volume form the many smaller springs that poured in since we started 2 days ago. We also noticed that the affect the violent storm and torrential rain had on the water level and clarity was gone. The river was very clear once again; in fact so clear that it was nearly impossible to gauge the depth now. Ten feet deep looked like two feet deep. A slight blueing or greening of the water occurred only in the deepest spots but only if the sun angle was right. Twice the depth was misjudged the evening before which is a cold and wet mistake.

These mistakes reminded me of the same mistakes made by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, an explorer who first saw this country, at the same location in the winter of 1818:

Thursday Nov. 5, 1818: “I begin my tour where other travelers have ended theirs, on the confines of wilderness…”

Schoolcraft called the North Fork “the Limestone River” because of all the limestone in the river valley. He wrote that the river was “wholly composed of springs” flowing pure, cold, and clear water. Schoolcraft visited Topaz Spring, which feeds the North Fork River and later became the site of a water mill for settlers. Schoolcraft called it Elkhorn Spring because he found an elk horn there.

Saturday, Nov 21, in the valley of the North Fork: "The bottom-lands continue to improve both in quality and extent, and growth of cane is more vigorous and green, and affords a nutritious food our horse. The bluffs on each side of the valley continue, and are covered by the yellow pine." Schoolcraft and his companion saw flocks of turkey and ducks, as well as a great many deer, squirrels, and beaver. Bear and elk were also common. And the rivers were deep.

Once, they found a place to cross the North Fork that they thought was only two or three feet deep. The water was so clear that what looked easy to wade turned out to be so deep that their pack-horse fell in and had to swim across. The water spoiled or damaged much of their provisions of meal, salt, sugar, tea, and powder for their guns. Soon after they were lucky to find a trail that led to a cabin where a settler family gave them food. The diet of the settlers they found was composed of meat from wild animals and meal ground from corn grown by their cabins.

And so it went nearly 150 years later. That night we slept soundly except once again about 3 AM this time lightening began to the Northwest again. This time I was really wired and ready for another giant storm, but even though the wind blew hard and the hail fell, that seemed to be the extent of it. Of course, that meant in the morning we would have to take time for tent drying to take place; as it still smelled damp when we threw the tent this evening.

The next morning it was much cooler and the sky fair, almost cold for June. I pulled on a sweater that I brought in case, and was glad to have it until about 9-10 AM. We cleaned up the site and policed the camp, loaded the canoe, and started day three. The fly rod and the maps and charts were readied again for the days journey. The first few turns and twists of the North Fork were beautiful with plenty of deep holes, and loaded the bedrock and ledges; also some large rocks were in the center of the river here and there reminding us that they had fallen into the river a long time ago (in geological terms). We scared a female Wood Duck with her large brood of ducklings. She did exactly what we had seen so many time; acting wounded, spacing, and making as much commotion as she could to direct our attention from her babies, which we saw lined up in a row under some saplings on the left bank.

Just after the wood duck entertainment, we saw a very sizable creek entering the river from the left. It was very clear, and was beautiful and looked floatable. We stopped at the mouth, and identified it as Indian Creek. Indian Creek has a sizable drainage from near Cabool, 20 miles to the north, to its confluence with the North Fork. A decision was made to pull the Old Town by a painter rope up Indian Creek, until we could go no further and spend the fourth night up stream somewhere. This was a chance for us to explore a tributary of the North Fork.

Indian Creek is beautiful and was in our minds worthy of a Missouri Nature Area, but at that time no such designation existed. The stream was even clearer than the North Fork. It ran cold and fast over gravel and bedrock. Large rocks dotted the lower mile or two as if they had tumbled down the surrounding hillsides. The creek valley was narrow with no noticeable alluvial land. The stream was large enough that smaller sized smallmouth bass and goggle-eyes were spawning and the beds were noticeable wherever the depth reached 3-4 feet. Shortleaf pines frequently grew down to waters edge, which gave the impression to us that this was not like Missouri as we knew it. The sweet smell of blooming wild roses permeated the entire valley. We so no evidence of farms, homes, lodges, or river cabins. At one point, in a high spot off to our right, we saw a nice stone foundation from a very early homestead, however, no wood or logs were visible, so it was undoubtedly abandoned 40-50 years earlier. The topographic map showed no path or dirt road to the spot where the cabin sat.

We found a small gravel bar high enough above the water to pitch a tent and with good drainage too. A decision was made to beach the Old Town we were dragging, and make camp, then continue exploring upstream with a fly rod and some maps only. The more we explored the more obvious it was how special Indian Creek was. We caught and kept four nice goggle-eye's and a few pretty smallmouths were caught and released. They were all under 12" in length. The goggle-eye were nice and sported a gold-black coloration that I had never seen before. They looked so black in the water; but when they were beached the black fish where beautifully accented with horizontal gold bars; and of course a piercing red eye. The fours of them would make a nice dinner for us in a few hours, so they were placed on a stringer.

Our exploration ended about two hours later when the decision was made to return to the canoe and relax. A sycamore tree lay perpendicular to the bank at this point, and backed the river up into a small pond. I saw the first beaver of my life working this pond; including witnessing several tail slaps and seeing the huge pile of willow, maple, and sycamore sticks he had assembled on the left bank. He did not want us to cross over the downed sycamore possibly because of cubs or kits. These animals were trapped to near extinction in Missouri by 1920 and through releases in the late 1940's and 1950's they were making a comeback across the Ozarks.

On our way back down to the Old Town we flushed 2 young wild turkeys which are also making a comeback across the Ozarks. Forgot how startling they can be when you least expect them. That night after dark and before midnight, after the whippoorwills stopped singing in chorus; I head all three common Missouri owls belting out their unique calls. Just after darkness fell, I heard a Screech Owl clamming territory, not far from the tent. Then about and hour later I was treated to a chorus of Barred Owls in a group chorus with included cackling, laughing, and hooting. It seemed to be contagious with them. Finally nearer to midnight under a large moon I hear the big hunter of the midnight woods; the Great Horned Owl, which is out note repetition. Before dawn, the whippoorwills where singing from every corner of the old homestead field behind us.

By 7:30 in the morning we were dragging the Old Town down Indian Creek and back to the main river. A smallmouth bass chasing a crawfish, darted out in front of me. Large schools of minnows appeared everywhere; what a beautiful day.

The float trip from Indian Creek downstream is beautiful. The river has more volume and plenty of small springs spill their cold water in along the way, increasing the size of the river. In less than a mile we coming to a ford across the river and a late1940'S vintage Ford 8N tractor rushes across in front of us. The ford is gravel compacted fairly tightly but somewhat loosened today, due the the 8" rise in the river. I would not attempt to cross at this point in a car. The water is a little too deep and fast and the gravel too loose. But by late summer into fall and winter, when the river is lower, this would be a nice crossing spot. Sometime between the m id 1960's and 2008, a concrete slab was laid down but is frequently covered with water.

Two more fords are crossed on the way downstream; Osborne and Hale, both with very low concrete slabs, which, again, do not provide a good crossing spot during a raise in the river level. The bird life on this section of the river appears exceptionally abundant. Warblers of many types a vireos appear everywhere. Their song echo through the valley during this nesting season. We closely watch a pair of American Redstarts either building a nest or feeding hatchlings. They are curious about the noises we make and quickly fly over and land close to us to investigate the intrusion into their territory, but they also appear curious about us, with their tails fanned they watch our every move.

The river below Osborne has many deep holes and fast runs and several larger spring to investigate. There is a pretty good number of tricky canoe runs too. Some are very rocky and full of wicked snags. We spent two full days on this stretch of the river and possibly caught over one hundred smallmouth bass, one topping 3 1/2 pounds. We finally come around the bend and see the old and tall Hebron iron bridge. According to our map we have about 7 miles to go until we reach Twin Bridges. We spend out fifth night just below Hebron on a nice gravel bar.

Hummingbird, NO; Moth, YES

2009-11-23T13:45:00.005-06:00

This hummingbird moth is fascinating. He is feeding on the nectar of Wild Bee Balm or Oswego Tea (Monarda). I have seen several at River of Life Farm in 2008 and 2009. Since I am always watching for hummingbirds, these always catch me by surprise. They are fairly common, however.

Next time you see a hummingbird working some flowers at ROLF, look again and see if it is a Hummingbird moth.

River of Life, Red, Red, Red

2009-11-19T12:26:00.002-06:00

Pictures at Kelly Ford on October 24th, 2009

2009-11-16T14:28:00.004-06:00

A few pictures of the North Fork at and below the old Kelly Ford this past October, just as the colors were dramatically changing. Kelly Ford is about 1.5 miles upstream from River of Life Farm. River flow was 1400 CFS.

Fall at River of Life Farm; October 23, 2009

2009-11-11T15:58:00.003-06:00

From the Treetop Hideaway porch; pictures says it all; do not miss fall 2010. Click to enlarge.

The beauty of Vera Cruz access on the Bryant Creek

2009-11-09T14:03:00.003-06:00

In the Bryant Creek headwaters, about 30 minutes from River of Life Farm, is the Vera Cruz access. The Bryant cuts a surprisingly deep valley at this point, the bottom is bedrock and the bluffs are beautiful. Try this as side trip sometime. Pictures below are from October 24, 2009.

The Golden Hour at River of Life Farm

2009-10-30T10:53:00.004-05:00

The pictures taken near the falls at dusk (5:30 PM - 6:30 PM CDT) show magnificent reflections of the autumn color change on the surface of the water. This only lasts about 5-10 minutes with golden hues changing the entire time. Click to enlarge.

Mayfly hatch on 10/22/09 near the falls 5 PM

2009-10-28T13:48:00.002-05:00

This hatch began about 5 PM and by dark was so thick that you could not keep them out of your mouth and nose.

The bridge over the North Fork at Hebron 10/23

2009-10-25T13:08:00.002-05:00

The colors are coming out late in October on the beautiful North Fork River.

Autumn on Double Springs (aka. Rainbow Springs)

2009-10-25T12:27:00.004-05:00

I spent an afternoon (towards dusk) at Double Spring last week (Oct 20) during the beginning of the peak of fall colors in the southern Ozarks. It was breezy and there was a high blue ski, just as October was meant to be. The two or three weeks prior to my day there, were cold and rainy, and had appeared to ruin the fall color fest across the Ozarks. This day marked a quick turn of events color-wise and the change that was on hold, began again. This is a picture of the south branch looking down stream (or spring branch) towards the North Fork River.

In the coming weeks, I will post about 25 pictures of the spring branch; a few at a time, so please check back in.

October 20th 2009 Dawn and River of Life Farm

2009-10-23T19:41:00.004-05:00

This pictures taken on 10/20/2009 as a view across the North Fork River valley from the Tree Top Loft front porch.

October morning at River of Life Farm

2009-10-23T19:37:00.005-05:00

Taken at dawn from the top of the hill leading to the entrance. Canon 5D Mark II and 200 mm f2.8 L series lens. This is just before dawn on October 21, 2009 (6:40 AM).

Floating the North Fork in the mid-1960's PART Three of Five

2009-10-01T12:35:00.004-05:00

Full Day 2

The second day of our trip started at 1:30 AM with a very scary thunderstorm; with hail and vicious winds. It started with continuous lightening in the western sky about 11:00 PM, by midnight, there was rolling thunder in the distance. By 1:00 AM the lightening became so continuous that it appeared to be only one long lightening flash over the next 20 minutes. I have to admit that I was scared. I had never seen a storm like this one. Storms always appear worse in the country because there is no other noise to grown them out, no lights to minimize the brightness of the lightening, and no radio or TV from which to get updates. Actually, there was no accurate radar in the early 1960's and even if there was, it would be in Springfield and too far away to see this storm. This storm only got worse. We both became nervous when we heard a swishing and whistling sound off to our south and east; that only lasted a few minutes. The cloud to ground lightening became constant just after the weird noise and then the rain hit. It rained very hard, with hail at times, for the next twenty minutes sand was over. At 4 AM, I could still see the bright lightening in the distant southeast, probably more than one hundred miles away. There a dark star filled sky over us running in all directions but the southeast, where lightening still flickered continuously. I went back to sleep again and did not wake until long after dawn. Steve K was not in the tent but I could smell his cooking from the Coleman stove. I was hungry but hated the cleanup duty that I was about the get.

While I cleaned up up the greasy skillet and utensils; Steve K packed everything up, but we left the tent up until the morning sun did a little drying; but we had to pack it up damp, which is not good. the Old Town was loaded up, this time, with our gear for up to 10 days. We spent about ten minutes cleaning up and policing the campsite and planning the day as we walked and talked to each other. We had hoped to make it to the ghost town of Topaz, with a map wheel on a 1934 contour map, it appeared to be about 5-6 miles, but honestly, we did not know what to expect. I could not find anyone to talk with that had ever floated this stretch of river. It was 9 AM and time to shove off. The river was still clear after the night time storm, but not as clear as yesterday and appeared to have risen about 6 inches. This was only a guess, because we had not placed a marker at streams edge; something that we knew to do, and would do every night in the future. Not surprisingly, the river was full of leaves and twigs; enough to make fishing impossible for now, so we concentrated on the river itself. In the morning sunlight, the rivers beauty began to show in full force. Huge sycamores, appeared to be up to 5-6 feet in diameter and the trunks were bright white in the morning sun. The sycamore leaves were still coming out from bud in many places in the canopy; probably due to the rainy, cold spring weather. There were several very large back walnut trees, still showing very small leaves too. I remaindered from years past that they always get their leaves last in the spring and shed them first in the late summer and fall. Behind the tree line the country was still farm country with lots of hayfields and an occasional corns field. we made a slow left hand bend that moved us to a more eastward direction into from the bright morning sun and saw a doe and very young fawn standing in the stream.

WOW, white-tail deer were hard to see in the Ozark highlands as they were still fairly scarce from over harvesting and dog-running. I had seen several in the early 1960's, but given today'a abundance, it is hard to imagine that I had probably only seen 5 or 6 in my entire life; Steve K a few more. She was nervous and did not stand long for us and rooted her baby back off into the woods. Almost immediately after the deer, we came to a low water crossing, which we did not expect. It did not show up on the old Topographic map or on the arial photo. The bridge was made from wood planks crossed by some braced pilings, and was not the typical hog-trough that we saw in eastern Missouri, but a crude plank bridge, which had be cobbled back together after high water on several occasions. You could tell by the different aged wood spiked into the bridge and the replaced footings and pilings on one side. We stopped there to take a few photos of the crossing and to sit for a while. I determined that we had only floated about half a mile and that was about right; it was 10:30 AM and we were moving slow. There was a very deep hole just downstream from the bridge with two or three large smallmouth bass patrolling the bottom. One appeared to be approximately four pounds or more. Soon, we saw what was going on we were watching the male, fanning a large nest with his tail fin and chasing everything that came near, including other small mouth bass, goggly and sunfish. Our guess was a late spawn or re-spawn due to high water in May. Either way, this fish was serious about protecting his nest, and appeared gaunt and beat up for all his hard work. They are amazing fish.

After about fifteen minutes at he bridge we pushed off again. Now we entered and area of continuous "S" curves with some logs across the river, we new we had to unload and portage but as we begin the unload the canoe we did notice that there were at least 2 dozen living trees down in the river, and splintered and broken all over the next stretch of river, there was asbestos insulation the the tree tops, shingles everywhere, books, check-stubs, and clothing. Then we both got a sick feeling and the same time, this was from 1:30 in the morning, it was a tornado, and it was not far from us. We wondered if anyone was hurt, what we could do, so we stopped and looked at he map and saw there were only two farmhouses west of the damage path and one we could see. Trees were down in the yard but people were milling around. We yelled at them and asked what happened and was anyone was hurt. They waved us on, after saying "twister" and "everyone is alright". The portage was a long one; maybe 1/4 to 1/2 miles though a muddy hayfield, but we turned it into an double trip and took turns carrying the canoe. In the end, it took about an hour, maybe more, to put the canoe back in a repack it. This was a scene of absolute devastation, nothing left standing for a hundred yards or more and more damage was evident, the further we got from the storm path, but this was less severe damage. I still remember today the incredible number of killed songbirds of all species in that hayfield. Several Great Blue Herons lay dead in the field also, also killed the night before. A very sad sight.

After we put in again after completing the portage, and started paddling, we spent much time talking about the tornado, but both had to admit that we were equally captivated by the incredible beauty of this stream. The "S" curves continued, but now we were in an area of dense forest, low bluffs, narrow bottoms, and very dark shade. A Green Heron jumped from the left bank and curved his flight downstream and landed on a snag just above the next bend. Near an area where the sun broke through the tree-cover we saw a large Northern Water Snake and stopped to watch him for a while. He was stalking frogs. We started to see lots of large soft-shell turtles on nearly every log in the river; some over twenty four inches in diameter. This is in the days way before canoeing and shooting turtles with a .22 rifle or pistol was popular. There was also a fair number of Sliders on the logs, sometimes what appeared to be entire families from grandparents to newborns lined up according to age. The water was definitely becoming murky compared to the day before. Ozark terminology for levels of stream clarity have always been funny; muddy, dingy, murky, cloudy, clearing, clear. These are the Actual terms used the the St. Louis Globe Democrat to describe river conditions across the state in every Fridays fishing report. They are in order of least clear to most clear.

Despite our earlier feelings about fishing today, we stopped and put the F.E. Thomas together and lined it up and tied on a red fly with a pearl spinner, tipped with a small fly strip. Steve K would fish, while I worked the charts and looked for the two small creeks we had hoped to explore today, while guiding from the stern. The canoe bounced around a steep "S" curve bend over some big rocks and we had to make an immediate left turn into a fast log filled eddy; small but very deep and with quickly moving water the entire length. Some of the logs were huge and must have been on the bottom for 20 years or more; there was not much left of them. Fish were darting in every direction. We knew we had to find a place to turn the canoe out so Steve K could cast. As soon as I could I found a large rock and eddied out behind it. The bow floated up stream against the moss covered boulder, so that all Steve K had to do was place his foot on top to hold us in place. He made several false casts, to straighten and dry the stiff silk line we were using. I could hear every line nub sliding through the steel guides; finally, when slightly wet, it all worked better. This line would need to be dressed (or greased) tonight after we pitched camp. Three casts later and Steve K had a good fish on; possibly a very good smallmouth bass. After a tough five minute fight, he landed a nice four to five pound channel catfish. Yes, channel catfish, on the North Fork on a fly rod. What a surprise ! Never saw or head of a channel catfish taking a fly but since that day I have seen that happen about a half dozen times more; always a surprise. We gave a short thought to keeping the catfish for dinner; but decided it was too big and we admitted to each other that neither like to clean or eat catfish. During the next half mile, Steve K caught and released about 6 nice bass up to fifteen inches, and 2 dozen big and fat sunfish and goggle-eye; and one black perch (green sunfish) that tipped the hand scale a one pound and seven ounces. We checked our ice supply and kept only two more goggle-eye for future meals. I did not get to fish at all this day, even though I wanted to, but I was really busy with charts and maps and my journal; each time we stopped. Both spring creeks we were supposed to hike, turned out not to be much; other than really intimate and pretty.

After 5:00 PM we made a final right turn and the flume from the old mill at Topaz came into view. We puled left and got out to look at the mill. What a neat place; picture this. An old town with no inhabitants; a main street, still in in fair condition made of Ozark stream gravel. An old barn to the left next to a large spring that is dammed up near the road, the dam makes an impoundment of about a acre of clear water. the water plunges over a wood closure into a long flume spillway, whitewater racing down towards on old red mill wheel. The mill is three stories tall and in fairly good shape but has not been used for probably 50 years, maybe more. One hundred yards down the road is a cool old country store with old style glass topped "fill and flow" gas pumps. Next to the store, another building, which might have been the Topaz post office. Across the old roads are several abandoned homes. The town was simply left as it was 30 or so years ago. A newspaper from 1931 lay in the general store window. No one lives here anymore. Why ? It is so beautiful with stands of shortleaf pines scattered throughout. We spent over an hour looking around town as if in the past century, then decided to push on a mile or so and find a small gravel bar or field to camp in; even though this would have been a great place to stay, we felt a little funny about staying in a ghost town overnight. The mosquitoes were especially nasty this evening and I was looking forward to a tent.

(Note; the town of Topaz still exists in 2009, infect, it is no longer a ghost town. There appears to be about 3-4 families in the valley now and they do take very good care of the old town and have been doing so for some time now.)

Red Tail Hawk this morning

2009-09-29T12:15:00.002-05:00

A quick picture I took earlier today.

Floating the North Fork in the mid-1960's PART Two of Five

2009-09-22T09:45:00.002-05:00

Tuesday and Wed. June 16th and June 17th

We were wakened at dawn by birds signing everywhere; got up quickly, checked the time and had a small breakfast, and impatiently waited for the farmer to arrive. Sure enough a 6:30 AM, exactly, we heard a gate swing open and there he was.

Then ride to the put-in point a little under five miles upstream was, even to my thinking at the time, through some real Ozark back country, There were still a dozen log cabins along the road, many from prior to the tune of the century; some neatly dovetailed; and some falling down. The road the narrow and only qualified as an improved dirt road running through hayfields. Only a few stands of tress could be seen here and there. In what seemed like an hour, the farmer got out and opened a farm gate on the right and we turned in, I jumped out and closed the gate. We rambled through the pasture and down to a clump of trees in a fairly shallow valley. The clump of trees was like and oasis with a large spring issuing from under a ledge rock and dumping into a small, clear stream. The stream was no more than 6-8 feet wide but ran clear and swift. This was the headwaters of the North Fork River. Upstream, was clearly visible, a large hayfield, with a low mudbank on the left, and a small ledge on the right; a barbed wire fence was stretched tightly across it.

We carefully took the canoe from the car and placed it bow downstream, in the fast clear water; then unloaded the little gear we decided to bring with us on day one; looking at the stream that was a good decision. We bid farewell to the farmer, heard the our car ramble up the pasture and all was quiet. We looked at each other and said in unison "here we go". Steve K started in the stern and I climbed into the bow; with the charts and maps in a waterproof bag inside an ammunition box with a gasket. The TOPO maps did not help much since we were floating 30 years after the (1934) version we had, except to give us directions, landmarks, and total distances. I could also see they we had a lot of farm country to transverse. The TOPO showed not too much tree cover, but that can change in 30 years. Next I looked at the arial map and had a hard time locating exactly where we were. With a little work and a magnifying glass, I found the put-in oasis. I could even see the upstream fence on the photograph. The first few turns in the river were tight and fast and took extreme coordination to carve to out, then we came into a fairly long straight away with a few patches of whitewater bubbling in front of us. We soon noticed that there was almost no gravel deposits in the river as both of us were used to seeing. No large gravel fields or gravel bars. The bottom was simple black, gray, and brown bedrock with a good smattering of brown and green algae. At this early point on this day there were no trees to provide shade either, just clusters of junipers growing out of rocks, dotting the river banks.

The scenery was so foreign when compared to the Black, Current, Jacks Fork, Meramec, Huzzah, or Big Piney; which we were used to. Steve K thought we must be in Oklahoma, except the clear water. The number of minnows was absolutely staggering. There was sections of the river now that were so full of minnows of many species, that it was impossible not to crush them with your shoes or with the canoe bottom. In one section of whitewater running over small ledge there were possibly 100,000, maybe 200,000 shiners; probably many more. This count was done fairly carefully by close inspection of 1 cu. foot of water and counting the number of shiners. Then estimating the number of cubic feet of water in the area where the minnows were located. The scene was like one hundred thousand mirrors, under the riffle, reflecting up into our faces. It was so astounding that we spent about 45 minutes at that point sitting on a rock, drinking water from our glass bottles and watching. At one point a 14 inch smallmouth chased at least 100 minnows up onto the shore. We could also see that the river was making a slow gradual turn to the west toward a low hill in the distance and were both hoping for some shade. The day was hot and becoming sultry too and it was only about 10:00 - 11:00 AM AM. Before passing a herd of cows below by, watering in the river, we took a refreshing swim in the icy cold water. There were lots of springs but they were all small in size; their combined waters did make the water extremely cold. Looking at the structure of the bottom of this stretch of water, we could easily see it would be nearly dry in August.

According to the location of the hill in front of us, on the contour map, I estimated that we were approaching the half-way point of this short trip. Soon we turned further west toward the treelined hill and then made a sharp left hand tune to the south against a low bluff and finally abundant shade. There were several beautiful and fairly deep holes separated by fast runs around jagged boulders running from the near bank on the east all the way to the bluff line. What an amazing stretch of river. We broke out the fly rod and rigged with a Hildebrant Pearl spinner; an Art Varner streamer fly (made in Salem, MO.) of black hackle with the barb filed off, and tipped it with a short piece of fly-strip (which is hard to keep on without the barb present). With very little backcast room, Steve K went first and immediately hooked and nice fish which made 2 fast runs downstream, then upstream against the fast current. In a few minutes he was releasing, without touching, a nice 14 inch smallmouth bass. His coloration was perfect for the shadows and shade; he was as jet black and copper. The most beautiful smallmouth I had ever seen. Three casts later, he had another nice fish on; this one possibly larger but the bass snapped the leader agains a root wad in the middle of the run, and was gone.

I took the rod and tied on a new spinner and fly (same color and same pork rind); made two casts and quickly hooked another good fish, this time about 30 feet downstream. This fish made at least four runs and about 6-8 jumps. I was able to land him and he was over 14 inches and probably about 2 pounds plus. He was quickly released. One of the toughest fish I ever fought. He was a dark black color also. We continued to fish this location for another hour and landed a few more smallmouths, mostly smaller than the first three hooked. Finally, at the downstream side of the run, where the water was reversing, we caught four large black and gold colored goggle-eyes and placed them on the stringer for dinner. I believe we could have caught about thirty in the small hole, but only needed the four. It was still sultry hot but the shade and breeze actually raised goosebumps on my arm. The sky was still blue but wispy high clouds had begun to move in from the north and west. The wind at 2 PM was very brisk out of the south and east, and sometimes very gusty. We wondered about rain chances, but mostly focused on the gorgeous river we were exploring. We did take time to explore a very cold spring fed creek coming from the east; but were disappointed that it was only one hundred yards long and the spring basin was not particularly pretty.

The rivers now turned slightly west of south again and entered more grassy farm country. the fields were of native grass and looked like old fields to us that had not been fertilized or farmed for a long time. There were many Ozark sundrops dotting the hillsides and they also with their startling yellow color. the Missouri Primrose (sumdrops) much larger than I had remembered and much more numerous than they were in eastern Missouri. There was a fair amount of Bluestem and Indian Grass with another covering of very tall pale purple coneflowers mixed with last years tall stand of rust colored indian grass. Prickly pears (a native Missouri cactus) were becoming more common in this section also and were in bloom too. The river itself was just a pretty as our put-in spot but was noticeably larger from the numerous springs. Very little if any gravel was present, and the bedrock was becoming blacker in color. We ran up against another low bluff, this time on the left, with an abandoned blacksmith shop on the top. The water under the bluff was so deep that we could not find the bottom, but we estimated it at fifteen feet or more. We tried to fish the hole but it was simple too deep for fly fishing. Finally at the lower end of the hole, where it began to shallow out again, I hooked a medium sized fish; and we shocked to see that it was a small walleye (know locally as Jack Salmon, or locally known as Jacks). I did not expect that at all. He too, was released unharmed to darted upstream for the bottom of the deep hole. Just below this spot, we ran across another very large school of shiners, again, maybe larger than the first. We stopped on the right (west) bank to make some map notes and correct the arial photograph as the river had moved much to the west of the location only one year ago. Also, from this point on, we began to see more creek chubs of good size and many suckers of all three types, flashing in the afternoon sun. We swam again to cool off, but the wind was not going to allow us to fly fish any more; so we put the rod away in it's sock and tube, to protect it's fragile tips sections and it's single mid section.

The wind out of the south and east, the direction we were moving had now, in our estimate exceeded 30 MPH with higher gusts, at times and it was impossible to do any more exploring, mapping, or fishing. For every 100 yards we floated downstream, we were blown back about 75 yards. It was now clear that we had to completely concentrate on paddling and moving downstream do risk going under the bridge much later in the evening that we wanted too. We finally rounded a short bend and came out of the wind, "what a relief". We both rested our arms for about ten minutes and then pushed on again through another stretch of loud white-water, this time scraping the canvas bottom badly, and that caused us really worry. No ribs were broken and no water appeared on the floor so we decided to wait to check it out when we landed for the night. Two ore quick turns to the left and then to the right and we saw the HH high bridge and new out first day was coming to an end. We had made the trip and arrived back at the car at 4:30 PM. The tent was blown down in the wind but everything else seemed in good shape. A close inspection of the canoe bottom showed a large but non-destructive scrap and several new deep scratches; but non required first aid with the patch kit. Steve K quickly cleaned the goggle-eye while I brought the Old Town up the bank, and laid in out of the wind next to the car.

A city girl goes to the North Fork

2009-09-18T12:20:00.005-05:00

A city girl, accountant, controller, and mother of 2 college boys made her first trip to float and hike on 9/14. She came away loving it and is ready to go back. She made her first float trip in control of the canoe stern, and a fairly tough hike on the following day. The rain really came down hard during the canoe trip, but dressed in a well sealed Arcteryx Beta Gore-tex jacket, she made it through completely dry and cool.

Floating the North Fork in the mid-1960's PART One of Five

2009-09-05T13:19:00.007-05:00

This will be a 5 part series about the changing face of the North Fork from the Summer of 1964 to the Summer of 2009 (45 years).

PART 1

In was early spring 1964 and I had just finished a 18 mile float trip on the Current River with a friend, Steve Klicke, who was 2 years older than me. He had a wealth of river experience and was excellent at canoeing on rivers. I also admired his knowledge of the outdoors and his ability with a fishing rod. His family was from the Big Piney watershed, where they had a farm. The purpose was to get ready for the Current River tandem races in May. I met several people at the event on that day, that connected me to Oz Hawksley, who, at the time, was putting together Missouri Ozark Waterways, a publication that would map the Missouri Ozark Streams. I received an assignment prior to my first year of college. Map, chart, and explore, the North Fork or the White River and the Bryant Creek, during June and July 1965.

I agreed and begin to excitedly prepare for an June departure. My parents were nervous about all the things that could go wrong on a float that long. I grew up at the junction of the Meramec River and Huzzah Creek and they were all to familiar with flash floods, strainers (log jams that the river flows through that can easily trap you or your boat), venomous snakes, weather, heat exhaustion, etc., but in the end, it was their knowledge of these things that gave them the courage to let me go; in other words, I had already experienced all of that too.

The Ozarks of Missouri and Arkansas was a different place the early 1960's than it is today. The rural way of life had not yet be sliced away. Small farms were marginally profitable, people were, almost always, friendly and honest and a little suspicious. There were still general stores in almost every community, where you could procure the goods you needed, and working farms still dotted the river valleys. The drive to the North Fork from St. Louis also took about 2-3 hours longer in 1964-1965 than it does today.

Monday June 15th, 1964

Our plan was to leave St. Louis Monday June 15th early in the morning and spend the day getting to the the takeout point; the Tecumseh bridge over Norfork Lake, leaving Steve's car there, then driving back up to the Highway HH bridge (Highway 76 today). We had permission to camp in a large hayfield just downstream from the bridge. By 7:00 PM we had our tent pitched; and left our gear packed up and the canoe still on top of my 1959 Buick, Steve's car was left at Tecumseh by the bridge. Our canoe was an Old Town Guide special order at 17' (the normal was 16'). I suspect they used a modified OTCA mold with less upsweep in the ends and no keel. My brother and I bought it from the Old Town Canoe Company in 1964 for 388.00. At the time that was my entire savings. Even though a Grumman Aluminum canoe would have cost us almost $205 less, it did not want one. The Old Town was beautiful and made with the most perfect white cedar ribs and planked with red cedar; and had a gorgeous canvas covering of green and have cane woven seats. We also had 3 fairly new, beautifully made, Old Town beavertail paddles and a canvas patch kit.

The trip from St. Louis to the lake and back up to the put in, point took 14 hours total. We ran through 2 heavy thundershowers before arriving at the camping spot. On the way back we stopped at the Crossroads Store (still there but closed and across the gravel road from the original store) as of May 2009 (45 years later). We bought enough food and ice for at least 3-4 days sand carefully packed it in a cooler and dry-box. Food in those days consisted of a few steaks, eggs, bacon, lunch meat, bread, lots of tomatoes, potatoes, beans, a head of lettuce, and onion, and a large jar of mayonnaise, matches, and a small can of crisco in case we were able to string some large goggle-eye. Even back then, neither of us had the heart to do anything but release smallmouth bass we caught, carefully unharmed back into the river. After the 3-4 day period we were not sure what we were going to do about food. Our expectation was to spend about 2 weeks on the North Fork; mapping, charting, and writing. Additionally we had a one year old canoe tent from Sears, not light, not convenient, but we figured it would keep us and our supplies dry. We carried onboard a fly-rod, a F.E. Thomas Special, 8' long and we took along with it a D and E weight, double tapered lines; and a box full of leaders, spinners, and streamers and a jar of pork rind fly-strip and of course a stringer.

In the spring and early summer of 1965 the area farmers enjoyed more than usual amounts of rain, which left the North Fork, in very nice floating condition into June, even as far up in the headwaters as we were. In fact, a decision was made by Steve K and I that evening, to go 5 miles further up and put in above Highway HH. A local farmer was to drive us up 5.5 miles (halfway back to Cabool) and put us in early the next morning, allowing us to float back to our parked car during Day One. We quickly found some dry firewood, cooked a steak and beans, eat and cleaned up. Steve K had a couple of cold Budweisers in the cooler that he taken from his Dad's refrigerator. But in the end, neither of us had a church-key, so they were left alone this evening. As darkness began to fall in the valley, we safely stored all our highway maps, arial photography taken the summer before, and 1:62,500 contour maps away; and climbed into out sleeping bags with a hanging flashlight, which allowed us to read and plan for morning. It was not hard to fall asleep that night and I still remember the vociferous whippoorwills; dozens of them singing right outside our tent until nearly midnight. I was awakened only once by a barred owl and finally the whippoorwills again at dawns first light. I do not think Steve K moved once all night.

Warbler nests I found this past spring 2009

2009-09-04T15:56:00.005-05:00

Warblers are unusual nesters. There nests may be found on the ground, in low bushes along rivers, reeds, holes in trees (at least one species), and high in trees. All these from River of Life Farm. The last nest is occupied by a female American Redstart.

American Goldfinches foraging on Coneflower heads

2009-08-30T15:47:00.002-05:00

The Goldfinches, usually the last species to nest, waits for an abundant seed supply. Here are a few shots of both male and female picking seeds from spent purple coneflower heads.

Ghosts of the past times in Ozark County Missouri

2009-08-29T12:14:00.003-05:00

A few building clustered around the North Fork and Bryant headwaters; off of Highway 181.

Debated whether to Post this or not (Pygmy Rattler)

2009-08-29T11:32:00.007-05:00

Never even told Myron. There is a very deep and gorgeous canyon to the south side of the ROLF property. This past April I hike the entire length and continued west to a gravel road which eventually led me back to the Signed entrance of ROLF. Near the top of the canyon of rocks, where the canyon turns into a creek with ledge rocks, I spotted the first rattlesnake I have ever seen at ROLF sunning himself on a warm 75F day. It is a Pygmy rattler, small and looking out of place in southern Missouri, but a real rattlesnake. If I ever saw one at ROLF, I expected it to be a Timber Rattler.

I was amazed at the beauty of this snake and his relative calmness (probably because he has just out of hibernation). His total length was maybe 16-18". I watched him and photographed him about two dozen times. He never moved or rattled. I got as close as 4' and he did not even twitch, he was at peace with the world on this beautiful day; so was I. After 30 or so minutes I left still marveling at what I had seen.

Here is the description:

Sistrurus miliarius streckeri

Local Name: ground rattler

This is one of the smallest species of rattlesnakes in North America. General color is light grayish-brown, with a row of small, dark brown spots on the back and similar spots on each side. Most specimens also have a rust-colored stripe down the back. The belly is usually gray. The pygmy rattlesnake has a thin tail and a tiny rattle. Length averages from 15 to 20 inches (38-51 cm). This species lives under rocks on cedar glades and is so secretive that few people encounter it. The sound of the vibrating rattle is a faint buzz like the sound of a grasshopper. Food includes small lizards, snakes, frogs and mice. Although the bite of this species is not fatal, a bite victim should seek immediate medical attention. The pygmy rattlesnake should be respected and left alone.

Missouri Distribution: Counties bordering Arkansas and the eastern Missouri Ozarks.

Dawn hummingbird picture of juvenile rubythroat

2009-08-28T13:43:00.004-05:00

as he approaches a stand of lobelia. Stopped a 1/1250th of at second shutter speed.

Scissor Tail Flycatcher

2009-08-27T17:59:00.005-05:00

This May 19th, I came across two pairs of Scissor-tail Flycatchers. One pair about one mile south of Highway 181 at Crossroads and the second on the entrance field to River of Life Farm on the North Fork River. Both pairs were actively foraging for insects. Both pairs shown above and both pairs where using black cherry trees as landing bases.

Severe weather over the North Fork

2009-08-25T17:14:00.003-05:00

A severe afternoon thunderstorm is brewing. I like the gold hues. This was taken in mid-May. Taken looking west from the main road into ROLF.

The bunting started it

2009-08-24T18:31:00.002-05:00

All was peaceful and good; up until the point when the fight broke out. From the feeder near the ROLF office.

Look I'm getting my red throat feathers

2009-08-23T10:56:00.002-05:00

A juvenile ruby throat male getting his feathers.

Late spring Nuthatch rooting for grubs

2009-08-23T10:51:00.003-05:00

Nuthatches have always been one of my favorite birds because of the antics, mostly spending their time upside down. During the winter the frequent feeders and I do not find them as interesting as I do in the late spring summer when they work upside down looking of bugs. These pictures were taken from the Tree Top Loft.

The reason why bird watching is so good

2009-08-19T15:34:00.005-05:00

You are nestled in the pines and oaks mid-canopy, so you can see all birds below you, very well, birds higher up in the canopy very well, and all the birds at 50' are at eye level. Birding from here is so outstanding; you have to see them to believe it. Try it soon. This is the TreeTop Loft and also has, as you can see, an excellent view of the river and water birds. Picture around May 2008.

A few Bluebird shots from mid-April 2009

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Here they are from 70' to 125' from this past April.

Using a long lens to capture bluebirds

2009-08-17T12:13:00.003-05:00

A picture of me taken by Myron, taking lots of pictures of the bluebirds coming and going as they feed their newly hatched chicks on April 18th, 2009. Canon 1DS MKII with a 600 mm Canon L lens with a 2X TC making the entire length 1200 mm.

Bluebird fledglings

2009-08-17T12:05:00.004-05:00

Another of my favorite pictures. I took about 500 pictures of the bluebirds in mid-April at River of Life Farm on the North Fork of the White river; the house closest to the falls. Then, in May they had fledged their 1st brood of the year and it appeared that at least two survived until later May. Here are some May pictures of a fledgling and a fledgling being fed by a parent near the Walnut trees by the falls.

Morarch and Cabbage on old Liatras and Mint

2009-08-16T15:28:00.002-05:00

A new Monarch on an old Liatras. A cabbage butterfly on mint.

River of Life Farm - Catbird

2009-08-16T12:56:00.003-05:00

Another one of my favorite pictures from this late May; a cat-calling catbird that hangs out in the brush near the Tree Top Hideaway.